An imagined gathering

A Christmas rehearsal in London

1972 · London, England

Cradock stages a Christmas demonstration dinner for Carrier and Freud, who trade barbs about showmanship and honesty.

Cradock has taken a London hall for her Christmas cookery demonstration and has invited a small party to the rehearsal dinner afterward. Robert Carrier, whose own television career is flourishing, and Clement Freud, who reviews restaurants for a living, have come to watch her work and to eat what is left over.

The pudding has been hanging since the summer and is flamed at the table; the brandy snaps are rolled around spoon handles in front of the guests. Carrier's beef Wellington arrives as a rival centrepiece and holds its own. Freud says little and eats a great deal, which Cradock chooses to interpret as approval. The question of whether cooking should instruct or entertain runs all evening and is never settled.

The table

Host: Fanny Cradock

Robert CarrierTelevision cook and restaurateur, then at the height of his fame.

Clement FreudRestaurant critic and broadcaster, an old sparring partner.

The menu

This gathering is an editorial recreation grounded in the biographies of those present; it did not necessarily take place as described.