An imagined gathering

A cookout in Provence

1987 · Provence, France

Floyd cooks outdoors for Olney and David, and three very different cooks argue about the south of France.

Floyd has rented a house in Provence to film a series and has invited Richard Olney, who has lived on a hillside nearby for thirty years, to come and eat. Elizabeth David, whose books made this landscape legible to the English, has driven down from London for a week.

Floyd cooks outside over a gas ring, loud and generous and slightly chaotic; Olney, who makes aïoli in a mortar with the patience of a painter, watches him with amusement and corrects the seasoning. David says least and notices most. They eat tapenade and pissaladière, then a fish soup, and the argument about who really understands the south of France continues long after the plates are cleared.

The table

Host: Keith Floyd

Richard OlneyAmerican cook and writer who had settled in Provence decades earlier.

Elizabeth DavidThe writer who introduced the English to the cooking of the region.

The menu

This gathering is an editorial recreation grounded in the biographies of those present; it did not necessarily take place as described.