Boeuf Bourguignon

The stew at the heart of Mastering the Art of French Cooking: a humble cut of beef, a long braise, and a sauce built from the cooking liquid rather than a roux. Child's version insists on browning the meat in batches and skimming the sauce, the two steps home cooks most often skip.

1. Cut the bacon into lardons, simmer it briefly in water, then drain and brown it in a heavy casserole. Set the bacon aside and keep the rendered fat.

2. Pat the beef dry, season it, and brown it a few pieces at a time in the hot fat so it sears rather than steams. Remove the beef, then brown the sliced carrot and onion in the same pot.

3. Return the beef and bacon, dust with flour, and turn the pieces in a hot oven until the flour browns. Stir in the tomato paste, garlic, wine, and enough stock to barely cover.

4. Add a bouquet garni, cover, and braise in a 325°F oven for 3 to 4 hours, until a fork slides into the meat with no resistance. Skim the fat from the surface as it cooks.

5. While the beef braises, brown the small onions and mushrooms separately in butter and set them aside.

6. Strain the braising liquid, degrease it, and simmer it down until it coats a spoon. Return the beef, add the glazed onions and mushrooms, and warm through. Serve with boiled potatoes or buttered noodles.