Fried Chicken

Colwin wrote about fried chicken as a test of character and a source of joy, best cooked in a cast-iron skillet for people who will eat it with their fingers. The buttermilk soak keeps the meat juicy under the crisp crust.

1. Soak the chicken pieces in buttermilk, covered, for several hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

2. Mix the flour with paprika, salt, and plenty of pepper in a paper bag or shallow dish.

3. Lift the chicken from the buttermilk, letting some cling, and dredge each piece in the seasoned flour.

4. Fry in an inch of hot oil in a cast-iron skillet, turning once, for about twenty minutes, until deep golden and cooked through. Drain on a rack, not paper, and serve warm or cold.