Roast Haunch of Venison

Venison was the meat of the hunt and the table of the great, and its leanness demanded both larding and a strong sauce. Period cooks often soaked the haunch in wine or vinegar to tame its gamey edge, then larded it with fat bacon so it would not dry.

1. Marinate the haunch overnight in red wine with vinegar, sliced onion, and crushed peppercorns.

2. Drain and dry the meat, then lard it by threading strips of fat bacon through the flesh with a larding needle.

3. Roast in a hot oven, basting first with the marinade and then with butter, until the surface is well browned.

4. Lower the heat and continue until the meat is cooked to your liking, basting often; a large haunch may take two hours.

5. Deglaze the pan with wine and vinegar, add crushed pepper and a spoonful of currant jelly, and simmer to a sharp sauce. Rest the meat, carve, and serve.