An imagined gathering

A long lunch on Long Island

1988 · Long Island, New York

Bailey sets a relaxed summer table for Lukins and Colwin, and the three of them talk about cooking for friends.

Bailey's house on Long Island is arranged for exactly this kind of afternoon: a big table, a cold tomato pie, and nothing that needs to be rushed. Sheila Lukins, whose Silver Palate books have made her the country's authority on party food, has brought Chicken Marbella; Laurie Colwin has brought her chocolate cake and her opinions.

The three of them agree about almost everything that matters to them: that food is for friends, that a host should be relaxed, and that the best dishes are the ones that improve overnight. They disagree only about how much planning a party needs, and they settle it over a second slice of cake.

The table

Host: Lee Bailey

Sheila LukinsSilver Palate founder and author of the decade's most-used party cookbook.

Laurie ColwinEssayist whose writing celebrates the ordinary home table.

The menu

This gathering is an editorial recreation grounded in the biographies of those present; it did not necessarily take place as described.