Capon with Herbs

A capon — a gelded rooster fattened for the table — was the most prestigious bird of the medieval and early modern kitchen, tender and large enough to feed a company. It was often barded with bacon and served with a green sauce of herbs.

1. Rub the capon inside and out with salt and pepper. Make a stuffing of breadcrumbs, chopped parsley, thyme, suet, and a beaten egg.

2. Fill the cavity loosely, truss the bird, and lay slices of bacon over the breast to baste it as it roasts.

3. Roast in a moderate oven, basting every twenty minutes with butter and the pan drippings.

4. When the bacon has crisped, remove it and let the breast brown. The capon is ready when the juices at the thigh run clear, about an hour and a half.

5. Make a green sauce by pounding parsley, mint, and bread with vinegar and a little sugar. Rest the bird, carve, and serve with the sauce.